Read Brian's great tutorial to solve the "no filament/no cassette" issue which comes up when trying to print with clear filament posted on ! Order the resetter already made (2 versions available). Provided by Chris (from the voltivo blog):Ĭan't be bothered printing the 3D shell and/or assemble the kit yourself? Do not dispair, there is a way to fix this! Simply follow the procedure below, kindly While it fixed some software issues (according to XYZ Corp), it introduces some unwanted bugs, like poor printing, cartridge locking etc. Removing the jumper (default) the temperatures will be set to factory defaults).ĬARTRIDGE NOT WORKING AFTER FIRMWARE version I UPGRADE? BAD PRINTS? Let's Fix That!Unfortunately the new firmware which XYZ Corp rolled out in mid April (Version "I") broke a few things. By inserting this jumper, you'll set the temperature to 230*C instead of the stock 200*C. You can download it as always from thinkiverse.Įdit April 18th: The program used in this resetter is now a direct fork of Oliver Fueckert's code, modified to be able to enable/disable the extended 230*C temperature on the nozzle by jumper selection (jumper is between pin 4 and 5. Some pictures including the new button (connected between the arduino negative and the battery) ( Mouser P/N 611-PTS645SL702 are below. It is a full enclosure with push-button power to make your life a little easier (no need to mess around with the battery anymore). Disconnect the board from the cartridge and you're done! It should now readĮdit April 17th: I've released a new shell today called XYZ999. Once connected, the arduino will send the counter-reset code and turn the led off. the led on the arduino will light-up and keep flashing until a connection is made with the cartridge. Power-up the pro mini by either the 3v battery or any power source (3v-5v) and let it do it's thing. gnd and the data-pin (the middle one) to data-port 7 on the arduino. Just connect the positive to vcc on the arduino, ground to. To wire it, just look at the cartridge the corner that is slanted 45 degrees, is the positive, the one next to it is the data-pin and the last one is ground. If you can't be bothered getting into programming or having to buy the USB programmer etc, or if you simply dont' have the time, you can get the whole thing (less the 3d printed shell) from me - see below If you want to make your own, you will need the 3D printed shell, an Arduino Pro MiniĬompatible depending on how long you want to wait to get it, 3 spring-pins theĪctual code (you can use the original code on github written by voltivo) and the wiring instructions (below).
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